Ferrara is much more than a historic bakery of Little Italy, it is an institution. Founded as a community coffee in 1892, it is a living archive of the Italian American experience in New York but always current, timeless. In this interview, Ernest Lepore, CEO and Executive Chef, retraces over a century of family history, from the first expressed served to newly landed immigrants on Ellis Island to the mythical “Holy Cannoli”, among handed down values, moments of crisis, benevolent spirits hidden in the sub-scale and projects for the future, always faithful to their roots.
Ferrara is a piece of living history of New York. Can you tell us how everything started before the city itself took shape?
Well, it’s ironic to think about it, but Ferrara was founded before New York City obtained its charter. In 1892, we became legitimate, but before we were a coffee, a real “social media ancient”. People came here, looking for Mr. Ferrara – a builder, an accountant, an architect – for help. It was a point of reference, a place where the Italian community found support and connection.
And the experience of Italian immigrants, how do you intertwin with your history?
If you came from Italy, from Ellis Island you would arrive at Seaport where you met the friends or relatives who had already settled in America and then, passing from the Lower East Side, you would walk up here, where there were mostly German, Dutch and Irish. But for us Italians, it was home. We turned Italian food into high gastronomy. It was a real cultural revolution, a way to affirm our identity and our value in an America that not always welcomed us with open arms.
Yours is a family story, with deeply rooted values. What is the principle that guided you through generations?
Our grandmother taught us: “First the family, then the business.” Even if we didn’t like it, we had to sit at the table on Sunday. And finally, things were settled. It’s the nature of things. This respect for the family has been translated into deep respect for the activity, which we had to redeem from other members. It is a bond that is handed down, like when my grandson, who is not yet four years old, tasted a tricolor biscuit bought elsewhere and said: “I don’t like it, it’s not good.” Quality is in our DNA.
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There were difficult times, when the future of Ferrara seemed uncertain?
The hardest time was when Dad died, just 47 years old. There was no succession plan. It was a very hard blow, but he taught us the importance of preparing us. Today, we are the successors to each other, and we have a good insurance policy!
Looking at the future, what are your dreams and projects for Ferrara?
The future is global, but also attentive to new needs. I want to take Ferrara to five key cities in the world, starting from Naples. And we are working on gluten-free products and “sugar-correct”, to educate people to eat the best in terms of nutrition for calories. Italian food, and Ferrara, must continue to evolve, teach and delight.
Finally, what is the secret of the longevity of a place like Ferrara?
If there was a secret, do you think I’d tell you? My mother would say “the munaciello”. We still have a staircase that does not take anywhere because there is the munaciello. It is a spirit, like a leprechaun, but Italian, that spins gold. Maybe he’s the real secret, or maybe it’s the consistency of the product, but certainly there’s something magical in this place.
L’articolo Ernest Lepore tells Ferrara Bakery, from the first espresso to “Holy Cannoli” proviene da IlNewyorkese.
