Lucan handicraft protagonist in New York: the master shoemaker Gianfranco Montano tells his story, from the first repairs in the workshop in Basilicata to the international stage. With CNA and Mondi Lucani, it brings beyond the ocean the excellence of the Italian “handmade”, symbol of an ancient knowledge that continues to conquer the world.
How is your participation in the project born with CNA and Mondi Lucani in the United States?
Together with CNA (National Crafts Council) and the Mondi Lucani association we arrived in the USA to show the excellence of the Lucan crafts, in honor of the first migrants who departed just as artisans or calzolai. I represented the category as a shoemaker craftsman, making tailored shoes.
We start from the beginning: how did your adventure begin in the world of footwear?
Everything began in my country, St. Archangel. I worked there, but at some point I decided to change my life and move to Parma. After two years, however, I missed my land and returned to Basilicata. Looking around me I noticed that in my area, Val d’Agri, there were no calzolai. So I opened a repair shop. The fate then brought me to Florence, where I found a prozio, master calzolaio, who taught at the Polimoda of Ferragamo and the Accademia Riaci. He really taught me how to make shoes. From that moment on, I fell in love with this job.
You also had famous clients. Can you tell us an anecdote?
The first famous customer was Francis Ford Coppola. When I ordered a pair of shoes it was an incredible emotion. They loved him so much that he wanted more and he called me his trust shoemaker. When we met, we talked a lot: a memory I will always take with me. From there began the word and I was lucky enough to work for Carlo Conti, Rocco Papaleo, Enzo Salvi and Al Bano.
How was the experience in New York?
Through CNA and Mondi Lucani I arrived in New York to exhibit my creations. I mounted my banquet and participated in this beautiful exhibition: I sold everything. Each piece is unique, made with high quality materials that I care about. New York has given me strong emotions and today I dream to open right here a craft workshop, a small workshop that brings Italian tradition and quality to the heart of the city that never sleeps.
How does a tailor made shoe arise in your lab?
Depends on the customer. Some come with precise ideas on pattern and color, others are undecided. In that case we sit together and try to understand desire and needs. The shoe is born like this: from the color of the lace to the type of sole, every detail is customized. During the processing I always ask the customer, because each shoe tells something about him.
You talked about difficult times. What helped you not quit?
There have been dark periods, as in every craft route. It is a niche product and make the value – and therefore also the cost – of a manufacturing of this type is not easy. But I never gave up. I studied and worked at the same time. Today the results repay all sacrifices.
What do you think are the basics for doing this job?
Passion and formation. Without these two elements we do not go far. It is a job that requires dedication, patience and love for detail.
And for the future, what are your plans?
I would like to open a school in Basilicata to convey the secrets of this profession to those who want to learn. It is a tiring job, but it gives great satisfaction. People go crazy for a unique and quality product, and we Italians in this are really masters. And then, a dream in the drawer: to open a small workshop in New York, to get to know even more the lucan crafts in the world.
L’articolo Gianfranco Montano conquered New York with his tailored shoes proviene da IlNewyorkese.
